Sri Lanka February 2019 – Tidying up before the GM invasion from India

This trip was nothing short of hastily arranged, the moment the first GM M11 was dispatched from India to Sri Lanka; which would surely put pay to some of the trains that were being worked by Alco’s? I’d not been to Sri Lanka since 2009 and had been waiting for the lines to Jaffna & Talaimannar Pier being rebuilt after the war had finished. While the line to Jaffna had been completed relatively quickly, the last bit to Kankesanthurai took a bit longer and the Talaimannar Pier line was last to reopen.

As India always took precedence, I ‘d been putting off my return to Sri Lanka for a few years, but the time came where it was then or never! Other than the obvious track to be covered with Alco, which also included Trincomalee, there were two things on the main agenda. One was whale watching, which we settled on Mirissa in the south for, and the other was a day looking around the ancient ruins in Anuradhapura, which hadn’t been a successful event on our last visit.

With flights hastily booked and a plan hatched we be covering a lot of ground in a short space, and GM M11 949 had already started working passenger trains before we got there; having initially arrived in October 2018.

Flights

Booked through Oman Air

WY102 2005 Heathrow – Muscat

WY373 0855 Muscat – Colombo

WY372 0910 Colombo – Muscat

WY101 1440 Muscat – Heathrow

Hotels

Mirissa – Yasuri Boutique Resort – We found it easy enough, although access from the main road in Weligama was down an alleyway and it seems that the hotel itself has two parts, one they bill as the Yasuri Hotel and the other as the Yasuri Boutique Resort. Neither part is a boutique, but the boutique part does look nicer than the normal hotel part. The young lad at the front desk was expecting us and wanted me to pay the bill before we went to our room but as his phone battery was flat, he couldn’t access the app to allow the remote to make the transaction; so, it was left for another day. The room was large but a bit rough around the edges, with the floor in need of a good dusting and clean. The bathroom was the same and the toiletries looked like they’d been there for years, let alone months! The beds were comfy though and the sheets clean, along with the towels. A mosquito plug was provided but we managed to splat the only one in the room before turning it on. The AC worked a treat and kept the room at a decent temperature. Without it, it would have been way too hot to sleep.

Mount Lavinia – Berjaya Hotel – The Berjaya Hotel looked very posh from the outside and while waiting to check in at the hotel lobby we were presented with a welcome drink, before being shown to our room by a nice, enthusiastic hotel boy. Our room was sizable, with excellent AC, tea/coffee making facilities, bottled water and toiletries were provided and the balcony overlooked the hotel’s pool down below; best of all, the coast line ran right alongside the hotel wall and we had a great view of passing trains from our balcony; and the hotel restaurant for that matter.

A spot of dinner was just what we needed after our journey from Weligama and the chili chicken we ordered off the al a carte menu was very good, but bloody spicy. It cost a fraction of the price of the buffet that was on offer, for the sum of RS3850 per head. With main meals on the menu being in the RS600-700 price bracket, the buffet was an absolute rip-off in comparison, but all the staff tried to usher everyone towards it, all the same. To put it in context RS700 is about £3 while RS3850 is about £16 and most of the dishes available on the al a carte menu were included in the buffet.

Anuradhapura – Hewage Resort – It was only a short drive to the nearby Hewage Resort, booked on Booking.com, where we’d be staying for three nights. Out tuk-tuk driver was a member of the family that own the Hewage Resort, his English wasn’t that great, but we heard him practicing English during our stay, using tape recordings. His partner was waiting, at what can only be described as a homestay, to greet us in their reception room. We were shown immediately to our ground-floor room, which was pristine, with a decent bed, great air-con, a large spotless bathroom and when I asked for a mosquito plug, I was told we didn’t need one as there were no mosquitoes in the room. I was skeptical but we never had a mosquito in our room for the duration of our stay. Bottled water was available in 1L bottles from the reception area, whenever needed, and we were charged for it during check out, which saved a lot of messing about. Breakfast was served on site and was different every day and made fresh.

Trincomalee – Trinco Lagoon – only a couple of kilometers from the station and took about 5 minutes in the tuk-tuk. The front desk staff were expecting us, and it seemed that we were the only people staying in the hotel. Our room was clean, the AC worked very well and WiFi was available. The staff at the front desk were helpful. We used the hotel restaurant, but the service wasn’t great, and neither was the food. This possibly had something to do with it being off-season.

Katunayake – Ronaka Airport Hotel – a 5-minute walk from Katunayake South station. Ronaka Airport Hotel had mixed reviews online and when we got to it, we realised why it had bad ones. It only took us 10 minutes to get to the hotel, but it then took longer to check in thanks to the hotel’s card machine playing up. They were more concerned about taking the payment than getting us to our room; and were told so. Eventually, we got there and were at least given a room away from the main road. It was nothing special and a little tatty around the edges. It wasn’t anything I’d not stayed in before but to my wife it was among the worst she’d ever stayed at. Despite the not so great room and the crap check-in, the staff were helpful and did arrange us a couple of tuk-tuk rides, when asked.

Train Tickets

All bought at railway stations on the day of travel

Monday 11^th February 2019 (The start of the long journey from Doncaster to Weligama)

After another hard-working night at work, I was able to drag my arse out of bed after a suitable amount of rest and we were soon London bound on 1A31 1315 Leeds – Kings Cross; with 91126 bringing up the rear. Despite being pre rush-hour the underground was busy but after flagging the first tube, which hat an advertised wait time of 6 minutes on the screen, we managed to get seats on the next one, only 1 minute behind it; and followed the wedged one all the way to Hatton Cross where we had to get off to wait for one that was going via terminal 4.

Having got into the airport the queues for security were extensive and it took about 30 minutes to get through, into the unfamiliar territory of terminal 4. We had plenty of time to kill and were ready board by the time our gate was announced. As we’d checked in online and not had to endure going to a check-in desk, our names were called out at the departure gate, prior to boarding. This was to allow the airline staff to check our passports and that we’d got the required online visa to enter Sri Lanka, which is the airline’s responsibility to check prior to you arriving in your country of destination.

Having not flown with Oman Air before, I was expecting it to be very civilized, with a good service on board; based on my travels with other middle eastern airlines. It was far from it and was quite possibly the noisiest flight I’ve ever been on; with upwards of 30 children on board, it was like being in a school playground! Utterly fucking rancid, with parents clearly having no care or consideration for other passengers around them; that didn’t want to listen to their screaming kids, have their seats kicked or be kept awake for the whole flight! It was worse than being on a short-haul low-cost flight. The on-board service wasn’t too bad though and the entertainment system was top notch. It was my first time on a Dreamliner too.

Moves for Monday 11^th February 2019

Tuesday 12^th February 2019 (“Planes, Trains & Automobiles” Muscat, Oman, to Weligama, Sri Lanka)

Arrival into Muscat was early and after going through security there, with hundreds of other people off connecting flights, the airport was a sea of tranquility, compared to the flight we’d just got off. You could almost hear a pin drop in the waiting area and thankfully, when we’d boarded the plane to Colombo, it was the same on board; and we managed to catch up on a bit of much needed sleep. It wasn’t a full plane and as it took off early from Muscat, it landed early in Colombo and we were state side before we should have been off the plane.

I vaguely recognized Colombo airport as we walked through it to get to immigration, where we discovered two separate sets of desks processing people into Sri Lanka. Initially we joined the same queue that every other “white” person had done, assuming that it was for foreigners only. A quick scan around the corner, while Danielle stayed in the queue, revealed that the other desks were also processing foreigners and some desks had no queue at all; so, we got through a lot quicker after scooting from one to the other.

Once out of the baggage area, money changers were on hand to entice us to their kiosk. The one that shouted loudest got my attention and the money changing process was quick and painless. With all the kiosks having exactly the same exchange rate, it really doesn’t matter which you go to. As I’d not been to Sri Lanka for 9 years, I still had a fair bit of money from my previous trip, which thankfully, the guy at the kiosk confirmed was still legal tender; despite all the Sri Lankan notes having been changed in recent years, I had no problem at all getting rid of them.

Between the money changing kiosks and the exit to the outside world, there were plenty of people trying to sell us Sri Lankan sim cards but as Sri Lanka is part of the Three-at-Home network, our UK sims were valid in Sri Lanka at no extra cost, so it wasn’t worth buying a Sri Lankan one. Right outside the exit doors are kiosks offering pre-paid taxi services. We got one to Colombo Maradana station for RS2500 but then paid an extra RS300 to the taxi driver, to use the new highway to get to Colombo. When I say new Highway, I mean its been built since my last visit in 2010 and by the look of it, its not well used due to the RS300 toll to use it. It got us to Colombo a lot quicker than braving the traffic on the main roads though.

The early flight arrival was a bonus and we had two hours to kill at Maradana before our planned 1750 departure to Weligama that evening. This allowed for a bit of train spotting during the wait, which was very hot and sweaty! It was unfortunate that we didn’t make an earlier loco-hauled train down the Coast Line towards Galle, although every DMU headed down the Coast Line departed Maradana full and standing, and the platforms were wedged with people waiting for them to arrive empty from the carriage sidings.

The first loco-hauled train we saw was M6 795 running through Maradana non-stop with 1029 1535 Colombo Fort – Kandy, followed soon afterwards by ancient M2 569, also trundling through non-stop, with 4003 1555 Colombo Fort – Vavuniya. Eventually, something with the correct power unit in it rocked up, which initially confused me. MLW MX620 M4 743 was on old maroon stock when it arrived, and I wasn’t sure until a few days later that it was actually on the train I thought it was, but sure enough it was 6012 0610 Batticaloa – Colombo Fort; which has very recently gone over from Chinese air-braked stock to old maroon vac-braked stock. Unfortunately, this means it doesn’t have to be an Alco anymore, as I found out the following weekend. It was an interesting few minutes, stood on the Fort end footbridge waiting for it to depart, watching locals pile into waiting DMU’s in the other platforms; and they even piled across the tracks onto one, which was stood in the middle road heading towards Colombo Fort!

MLW MX620 M4 753 arrived with 5868 0730 Talaimannar Pier – Colombo Fort and dropped nicely into 1172 1642 Colombo Fort – Polgahawela Jn at Fort; which I’d forgotten had been worked regularly over the last week by the newest addition to the SLR fleet, DLW built EMD M11 949; taking over what was a solid M8 turn on air-braked stock. I guess the saving grace at this point was, that it was M11 949 and as a result the damn thing wasn’t fucking up other moves on the Northern Line, allowing the M10’s to continue working to Kankesanthurai; for now…..

M6 797 with 1010 1500 Kandy – Colombo Fort provided a quick move to Fort and back again and it was just unfortunate that I had to get off M4 744 working 3425 1718 Colombo Fort – Puttalam, in favour of heading south with DLW built M10 916 on 8766 1750 Colombo Maradana – Matara; but needs must. We didn’t realise when braving the scrum to board 8766 at Maradana, that we’d sat in 2^nd class. We only had 3^rd class tickets but thankfully there was no ticket check at all, all the way to Galle. By the time we realised the error of our ways, there was no way we’d have got a seat in 3^rd class anyway, which was wedged most of the way down the coast.

Having not had an M10 until 8766 departed Maradana, I was keen to listen to one, with them being 12-cylinder machines. While the driver gave it quite a punishing on the coast line, the noise emitted is nothing like the growl of a “proper” 12-cylinder Alco, such as an M4, and unfortunately the Indian’s have made them sound very similar to their own 12-cylinder WDP1’s; which were actually built with a growl and now chug instead. Still, I wasn’t going to turn my nose up at them and quite enjoyed the run south, even if it was in darkness all the way.

At Galle old GM M2 570 was sat in the adjacent platform with a rake of 5 3^rd class coaches and when everyone got off the train at Galle, I figured something wasn’t right. Asking a local soon confirmed that the rake 570 was on was going forward to Matara, so we headed around the buffer stops, bode farewell to the M10 and walked to the front coach of the forward rake; which was the only one with empty bays in it. Another tourist beat me to the front bay though, who only ended up there as she was looking for a 2^nd class coach, which of course there weren’t any. She was soon moving back through the coach though, when a couple of rather large cockroaches made an appearance in the front bay; and they were huge!

Having only had one M2 previously, I was expecting a bit more from 570 when it set off but was sadly disappointed to find it a little quiet in the noise stakes and very GM-like; not as rattly as I thought it might be. The driver was a complete cretin as well, putting it in full service at the platform ends and then having to rev the engine to get the brakes off, all while trying to get the train away; making for a rollercoaster journey, which you wouldn’t have wanted to try and drink a cup of tea on! And it lost time as a result, a pretty poor show really. There was some entertainment provided on the train as well though, with a full grip taking place on departure from Galle, at which point we were sat in the correct class of course! They were ruthless too. One guy gave them a ticket, eventually, after rummaging in his bag, which they didn’t like, took it off him and wrote a form out while sat with him. I didn’t see any money exchange hands, but they were still sat around him when we got off at Weligama.

It was only a 10-minute walk from Weligama station to our hotel of choice near the beach, the Yasuri Boutique Resort. We found it easy enough, although access from the main road in Weligama was down an alleyway and it seems that the hotel itself has two parts, one they bill as the Yasuri Hotel and the other as the Yasuri Boutique Resort. Neither part is a boutique, but the boutique part does look nicer than the normal hotel part. The young lad at the front desk was expecting us and wanted me to pay the bill before we went to our room but as his phone battery was flat, he couldn’t access the app to allow the remote to make the transaction; so, it was left for another day. The room was large but a bit rough around the edges, with the floor in need of a good dusting and clean. The bathroom was the same and the toiletries looked like they’d been there for years, let alone months! The beds were comfy though and the sheets clean, along with the towels. A mosquito plug was provided but we managed to splat the only one in the room before turning it on. The AC worked a treat and kept the room at a decent temperature. Without it, it would have been way too hot to sleep.

It had been a very long journey from Doncaster to Weligama, involving 2 planes, technically 2 trains, a tube and a taxi and it had taken us 28 hours from our front door to the hotel in Weligama. Sleep wasn’t something we’d struggle with that night, but the 0430 alarm would certainly cut it a lot shorter than we’d want.

Gen for Tuesday 12^th February 2019

795 1029 1535 Colombo Fort – Kandy
569 4003 1555 Colombo Fort – Vavuniya
743 6012 0610 Batticaloa – Colombo Fort

753 5868 0730 Talaimannar Pier – Colombo Fort
949 1172 1642 Colombo Fort – Polgahawela Jn

797 1010 1500 Kandy – Colombo Fort
744 3425 1718 Colombo Fort – Puttalam
790 8772 1740 Colombo Maradana – Aluthgama
916 8766 1750 Colombo Maradana – Matara (to Galle)
570 8766 1750 Colombo Maradana – Matara (from Galle, set swap)

Moves for Tuesday 12^th February 2019

Photos for Tuesday 12^th February 2019

Wednesday 13^th February 2019 (Whale watching with Raja & the Whales from Mirissa)

Our pre-arranged whale watching tour with Raja & the Whales was sorted via their website a couple of months in advance, with e-mail responses confirming the costs and pre-arranged pick-up time from our hotel. After a quick shower we managed to get out of the hotel confines, thanks to the gate not being locked, and stood on the main road at the front to await our tuk-tuk pick-up at 0545. He was a few minutes late, probably because he’d been waiting at the opposite entrance. It was pitch black on the street but there were quite a lot of tuk-tuks passing by and quite a few locals mooching about. The ride to Mirissa took about 10 minutes, around the coast road, and we were dropped outside Raja & the Whales’ office in Mirissa. If you’d not already done so you had to queue to pay for your tickets, before one of the boat’s crew led you over the road to the harbour to board your whale-watching boat. From arriving at the office to boarding the boat took about 15 minutes and the whole process was all very efficient, even if it did appear chaotic. There’s a whiteboard outside the office, which advertises what has been spotted on the previous couple of day’s whale-watching trips. It showed 6 whales the previous day, with a load of dolphins to boot and the day before that had similar sightings. What wasn’t so good was the fact that the board also advertised the sea conditions, which were showing to be “rough” for our tip out; below which it also said that sea-sickness tablets were provided for everyone but that they made you tired and drowsy. I picked up a couple during the payment process anyway, just in case…….

The boat wasn’t full when we boarded. It had an upper and a lower deck, with the upper one not having seats, mats were provided around the periphery for people to sit on. When one of the crew told us that the upper deck would be rougher due to there being more movement caused by the swells, we chose to sit downstairs anyway; and had the pick of the seats before the board got full. There were two decent toilets on board, which one lady said were the cleanest she’d used while she’d been in Sri Lanka, despite having no toilet seats! There was also a kitchen, from which the crew handed out tea and biscuits before departure, fresh fruit on the way out of Mirissa and sausage, omelette & toast on the way back to harbour. I didn’t get beyond the tea & biscuit stage!

We set off at about 0630 and all the while we were out, we were never near any other boats, which is Raja & the Whales’ choice. And the very reason we chose to use them was because they strive to look after the whale population, treat them with respect and are even trying to get the Sri Lankan government to alter the shipping course (where the whales are) as around a dozen get killed by large commercial ships every year. Immediately after setting out on our hunt, everyone was gathered at the front of the boat for a pep-talk and the crew also explained where we’d be going and what to expect during the trip, using maps and books as visual aids. It was hard to stand up at points as it was, just like the notice board had said it would be, rough! It wasn’t rough, rough though, it was a bumpy ride because of swells. By the time I sat back down my guts were starting to churn, and after I’d been to use the toilet, which was interesting in its own right because of the rough seas, I had to ask for my first sick-bag; and that, as they say, was the end of that…..

Not that I saw during the journey, but apparently about 80% of people on board weren’t cut out to be fishermen and there was a constant number of sick bags going by where we were sat. To be fair to the crew, they were kind, sympathetic and looked after everyone; and the moment one sick bag was taken away another was handed out to replace it, along with wipes for the dribbles!

Was throwing up seven times worth it, I hear you say? Well, although I felt like shit for a lot of the journey, there were moments, generally immediately after throwing up, where I felt normal. During the four-hour trip we were privileged to see a Bryde’s whale, three Blue whales and a pod of approx. 100 bottle-nosed dolphins. Finding the whales, for the crew, didn’t seem to be too hard a job and it was a bit surreal just sitting and watching one appear, so close to the boat, and being able to hear it blowing before being able to see where it was. Unfortunately, all the Blue whales we saw were males and according to the crew males don’t show their tails when diving, which was a shame. Not that I was in a fit state to take any photos, anyway, let alone able to stand properly to take them! Thankfully, when we encountered the pod of dolphins, which could be seen a long way off, I was in-between sickness bouts and was able to stand at the edge of the boat and admire them gracefully playing to their gallery. Some were swimming along in the crest at the front of the boat and others were providing entertainment in the distance as they sprang out of the water doing various summersaults. It was a truly amazing encounter.

Despite enjoying what I could of the trip out, I was so glad to hear the words “we’re now returning to harbour”. We were told it would take about an hour to get back to Mirissa, and it was an hour I spent with my head in my hands but did manage not to throw up again, all the way back. It seemed that being bent double prevented my stomach from churning as much and when the boat was on the move at a decent speed, as opposed to bobbing about in the swell, I felt less sick. I would have eaten a scabby horse by the time we got back to Mirissa harbour and the smell of the omelettes was tempting; but it would have been a pointless task even attempting to stomach one, of course. We were, according to the crew, lucky to have found whales so close to the shore, which I was very grateful for. Some days, the trips can last twice as long and they have to go a lot further to find one whale, let alone 4. I thanked the crew as we got off the boat and would highly recommend Raja & the Whales if you’re thinking of doing a whale watching trip in Mirissa, they were brilliant.

My legs still seemed to work when I got back onto land and we clambered straight into a waiting tuk-tuk, which took us back up the coast road to the Yasuri in Weligama, where some much-needed air-con was on hand to cool us down.

I’d not been prepared for us to be finished so early in the day, but as a result a bonus afternoon trip to Matara was in the offing and after a brief rest we walked to the small station at Weligama. Despite only being a single-line platform there are gates to the platform, where tickets are checked before you’re allowed onto the platform, and tickets aren’t sold for trains until they’re in the vicinity. Benches are provided in a small waiting area to sit on while you wait though. There are two big signs hanging above the platform entrance that got my attention, for the wrong reasons of course. One read “It is a punishable offence entering the flatform without a valid ticket” and the other “Tress passing across the platform is punishable offence”. On the pillar at the side of the entrance gate, something I love about Sri Lankan Railways, was the display for next trains to Vavuniya, Kandy, Colombo, Galle & Matara, all of which had small clocks at the side of them which one of the station staff manually adjusts the hands of, to display the time of the next train. At Colombo Maradana the same occurs but on a grander scale.

Tickets went on sale shortly before the next Matara bound train approached. You can generally tell in remote places when a train is in the vicinity as the signaling system is live, and the signals lit. Often they’re turned off after a train has gone, with everything being black when there’s no power to them. It wasn’t long before the signals were live, and a train could be heard in the distance. I didn’t realise it until we got to Matara but DLW built M10A 942 arrived with 8040 0630 Maradana – Matara running late; and not 8040 0810 Maradana – Matara running to time.

At Matara we went for a short walk in the afternoon sunshine, after I’d managed to persuade the guy on the ticket barrier that it wouldn’t hurt him to let me keep my train tickets as a souvenir. With it being Valentine’s Day the following day, most of the shops along the main street had speakers outside blaring out loud distorted music, and all seemed to be trying to compete to gain custom. As there wasn’t much to look at, we were back at the station within 30 minutes, by which point M5 776 had arrived with 8040 0810 Maradana – Matara. I’d not noticed it when we’d arrived but M10A 943 was shunting stock in the station yard and randomly, the it shunted the two 2^nd class coaches off the rear of the rake that the M5 had arrived with, then came back to shunt the rest of the rake out, back it down onto two other 2^nd class coaches and then deposited the lot back in the platform to form 8039 1325 Matara – Colombo Fort. The stock shunting seemed a pointless exercise to me but at least we had plenty of space in the front 3^rd class coach when the waiting tourists were herded towards the back of the train.

At Weligama, it would have been rude not to head straight back to Matara when DLW M8 842 turned up with 8086 1030 Colombo Fort – Matara. After a quick turnaround there, M5 776 worked back out with 8051 1410 Matara – Maradana and not wanting to miss anything I hung around at Weligama to await the arrival of 8752 1400 Galle – Matara, which promptly turned up with M2 595. Thankfully it was prompt too and it made the opposing working of 8345 1515 Matara – Galle at Mirissa; which had classmate M2 628 at its helm and topped off a decent little afternoon’s nedding about.

Food was very much on the agenda, now I was back in full working order, and pretty hungry. We stumbled across a nice-looking restaurant on the front called High Tide. It wasn’t busy but I cheekily asked a couple that were paying for their bill what the food was like, who told me they’d eaten there loads and wouldn’t go anywhere else when in Weligama; which was good enough for me. The staff were friendly, the view out across the beach from upstairs was nice and it was relaxing; oh, and the food was good. We even returned that evening to sample the pizzas that everyone visiting the High Tide mentioned in their feedback online; and they were good pizzas, made fresh and done in a proper pizza oven. In between times we had a quick walk on the beach, before retiring to the room to catch up on a bit of sleep. We were lucky we didn’t end up sleeping straight through the evening and into the night, missing food completely that evening! Needless to say, we weren’t late out of bed and were grateful that we didn’t need to get up early the following morning.

Gen for Wednesday 13^th February 2019

942 8050 0630 Maradana – Matara
943 8039 1325 Matara – Colombo Fort
776 8040 0810 Maradana – Matara, 8051 1410 Matara – Maradana
842 8086 1030 Colombo Fort – Matara
595 8752 1400 Galle – Matara
628 8345 1515 Matara – Galle

Moves for Wednesday 13^th February 2019

Photos for Wednesday 13^th February 2019 – Railway

Photos for Wednesday 13^th February 2019 – Weligama

Thursday 14^th February 2019 (Weligama to Mount Lavinia)

The good thing about the Yasuri was that it was situated away from any main road, so was in a very quiet location. We did set an alarm, just in case, but were up well before it. We attempted breakfast at the hotel, which yielded a decent fresh fruit juice and a cup of decent tea; and while drinking which we watched a newly arriving couple argue the toss with the staff about how much they were paying for their room, which they’d booked online, and apparently didn’t look at all like the pictures they’d looked at. When they eventually checked in, it sounded like they were stopping for a few weeks. Each to their own, and we’d be back at home well before they left Weligama!

I had to pull the hotel guy away from his newfound friends to get our bill paid and thankfully he had enough battery power to get the payment app working. We checked out shortly afterwards and were at Weligama station well ahead of the 0956-departure time of 8085 0940 Matara – Colombo Fort. Tickets were already on sale when we arrived and there were quite a lot of people waiting by the time M8 842 rolled in with the train. 2^nd class was behind the engine, to Galle, and then at the rear of the train for the run up the coast line. There were only a couple of empty bays in 2^nd class when we got on at Weligama and by Galle the train was full and standing, with no seats for the waiting hoards there. The little Y Class Hunslet shunter, #680, was outside the station when we arrived, ready to drop another coach onto the Colombo end of the train. Anyone with any sense would have been waiting for it to back down and finding themselves a seat the moment it did. The train was absolutely rammed to the rafters from Galle and anyone getting on, all the way to Colombo would be standing in whatever space they could find. And people couldn’t jump into our seats quick enough when we got up to get off and fight our way to the doors.

Before departing Galle, we had to wait for M10A 942 to arrive with 8050 0630 Maradana – Matara and along the coast we passed M10A 941 with 8040 0810 Maradana – Matara. At Panadura we overtook M2 570 with 8350 1220 Kalutara South – Maradana, and then watched it go by our hotel at Mount Lavinia, from our room balcony, shortly after checking in. There were plenty of tuk-tuk’s available outside Mount Lavinia station when we got off and it only cost RS200 to the Berjaya Hotel, which was about 1.5km north of the station, along the beach.

The Berjaya Hotel looked very posh from the outside and while waiting to check in at the hotel lobby we were presented with a welcome drink, before being shown to our room by a nice, enthusiastic hotel boy. Our room was sizable, with excellent AC, tea/coffee making facilities, bottled water and toiletries were provided and the balcony overlooked the hotel’s pool down below; best of all, the coast line ran right alongside the hotel wall and we had a great view of passing trains from our balcony; and the hotel restaurant for that matter.

A spot of dinner was just what we needed after our journey from Weligama and the chili chicken we ordered off the al a carte menu was very good, but bloody spicy. It cost a fraction of the price of the buffet that was on offer, for the sum of RS3850 per head. With main meals on the menu being in the RS600-700 price bracket, the buffet was an absolute rip-off in comparison, but all the staff tried to usher everyone towards it, all the same. To put it in context RS700 is about £3 while RS3850 is about £16 and most of the dishes available on the al a carte menu were included in the buffet.

After food I nipped out for a spot of cranking in the evening rush-hour. I took the easy, but longer, option to get back to Mount Lavinia station and walked over the footbridge from the hotel to their beach restaurant and then out onto the railway and followed it down to the station. The evening got off to a decent start with a couple of quick moves on Brush built M7’s; 814 to Dehiwala on 8352 1340 Kalutara South – Maradana for 800 back on 8751 1400 Maradana – Aluthgama then I attempted a few photos of trains approaching Mount Lavinia with the Colombo skyline and beach , before walking back to the station to do MLW MX620 M4 748 to Panadura on the last of the three evening commuters that headed out of the Colombo suburbs before heading back through the city to mop everyone up going home. M4 744 was first with 8749 1430 Maradana – Panadura (which would then head to Puttalam), M11 949 next with 8755 1500 Maradana – Mount Lavinia (which would then head to Polgahawela) and M4 748 last with 8756 1520 Maradana – Panadura (which would then head to Chilaw).

Having spotted M10A 941 heading to Matara earlier, based on the previous day’s observations I was anticipating it returning on 8051 1410 Matara – Maradana. After getting a few snaps at Panadura, imagine how pleased I was that 8039 1325 Matara – Colombo Fort was running late, when M10A 941 rolled in with it! I should have missed it off 8756! I did it through to Colombo Fort to view the evening departures towards Mount Lavinia and made 1035 1635 Colombo Fort – Kandy with M9 864, so did it to Maradana for M6 790 back to Fort on 8772 1740 Colombo Maradana – Aluthgama the used the following three trains to inch my way back to Mount Lavinia, where I arrived in the middle of a heavy storm and got a tuk-tuk back to the hotel. M10A 945 worked 8766 1750 Colombo Maradana – Matara, M5 767 worked 8774 1825 Maradana – Aluthgama and M10A 940 eventually turned up with 4078 0825 Kankesanthurai – Mount Lavinia, which I saw running back empties to Colombo while eating in the hotel restaurant later.

The evening meal at the hotel wasn’t as good as the afternoon one had been, and to be honest was a bit crap. Everyone using the restaurant, again seemed to be tucking into the buffet and not using the al a carte menu. Lesson learnt, always have the chili chicken, no matter how spicy it is! By the time we’d finished eating the storm had subsided, the lightening had finished, and the rain had stopped pounding down into the pool outside. Downstairs by the pool there were a load of tables set up for Valentine’s diners to use, which I’m guessing might have been a little damp after the downpour.

It was nice to relax of an evening before bed, to recharge the batteries before heading north to Anuradhapura the following day. Originally, I’d been planning to do Weligama to Anuradhapura in one go, on the same train throughout but decided that 10 hours in the same seat might be a little too much!

Gen for Thursday 14^th February 2019
842 8085 0940 Matara – Colombo Fort
942 8050 0630 Maradana – Matara, 8051 1410 Matara – Maradana
941 8040 0810 Maradana – Matara, 8039 1325 Matara – Colombo Fort
570 8350 1220 Kalutara South – Maradana
814 8352 1340 Kalutara South – Maradana
800 8751 1400 Maradana – Aluthgama
744 8749 1430 Maradana – Panadura, 8365 1610 Panadura – Colombo Fort
949 8755 1500 Maradana – Mount Lavinia, 8356 1610 Mount Lavinia – Colombo Fort
748 8756 1520 Maradana – Panadura, 8367 1705 Panadura – Colombo Fort
864 1035 1635 Colombo Fort – Kandy
790 8772 1740 Colombo Maradana – Aluthgama
945 8766 1750 Colombo Maradana – Matara
767 8774 1825 Maradana – Aluthgama
940 4078 0825 Kankesanthurai – Mount Lavinia

Moves for Thursday 14^th February 2019

Photos for Thursday 14^th February 2019 – Railway

Photos for Thursday 14^th February 2019 – Mount Lavinia

After an early night, I was wide awake early enough to not have missed the morning rush-hour trains towards Mount Lavinia. I’d heard plenty of trains going by while laying awake anyway, and I have to say the S10 DMU’s do make a racket for a DMU! After eventually making the effort to drag my ass out of bed, I tiptoed out and headed towards Mount Lavinia station, via the railway, again. It was quite a pleasant morning, until the sun started to warm the air up.

It was never going to be a hectic morning and I was only really planning on getting a few photos of the morning trains, which turned out to be off the station footbridge at Mount Lavinia. After photting M11 949 arriving with 8725 0735 Maradana – Ratmalana, followed by M4 748 arriving with 748 8727 0732 Maradana – Panadura, I decided to take a walk back down the track to get a different shot of the next arrival. Not my best move as I got caught out when walking around the beach to get onto the footbridge that led to the Berjaya Hotel; as M4 750 went by towards Mount Lavinia station, with what I assumed was 8732 0812 Maradana – Mount Lavinia. That had me heading straight back to whence I came from and being thankful that there would be a nice cold shower available when I got back to the hotel room later!

For my next bungle, M4 744 came bowling into Mount Lavinia while I was negotiating the bridge that leads to the Mount Lavinia Hotel; at which point I was more concerned about not getting bowled over if something came in the opposite direction, than getting my camera out for a rushed photo. When I got onto the platform I realised that M4 750 wasn’t there, so couldn’t have been 8732 0812 Maradana – Mount Lavinia; and indeed, it turned out that M4 744 was, when the loco was immediately detached to run-round its set. I was all set to wait at Mount Lavinia to see what M4 750 came back on when 8040 0810 Maradana – Matara was announced; so off I went to Panadura with M10A 944, where M4 750 was sat waiting to depart with what turned out to be 8336 0935 Panadura – Maradana.

I had to get a tuk-tuk back from Mount Lavinia to the Berjaya Hotel, to make it in time for breakfast, and a decent breakfast it was too. Where I watched M5 767 roll by the hotel with 8342 0700 Aluthgama – Maradana as we sat down and then M4 755 running by with 8086 1030 Colombo Fort – Matara as we finished. Breakfast was buffet-style and there was a lot to choose from, including having omelettes freshly made with your choice of fillings. After breakfast I needed to go out and get some bottle water for the 6-hour train journey ahead of us. I’d noticed during my morning out that there weren’t any “shacks” knocking about, other than one by the railway crossing I’d been using to access the railway line to get to Mount Lavinia station. 1.5L bottles there had RS70 on each bottle, but they wanted to charge me RS100 per bottle, which I rightly questioned. The result of that was an argument about them charging more than they should and me giving them a telling about it in the end, which ultimately cost me more for water in the long run! Back at the hotel I asked in reception what they charged for a bottle of water, to be told RS250 for 1L! Needless to say, when I went back to the shack I’d just had a riot with, they wouldn’t sell me any, so I ended up at one of the beach shacks and paid RS150 per 1L bottle; that’ll teach me to argue with a stall owner about what’s right and what’s wrong, won’t it! Tossers! This shit is rife throughout Sri Lanka now too.

After checking out we got a tuk-tuk to Mount Lavinia station, bought our 2^nd class tickets to Anuradhapura and waited it out in the shade. Everyone else waiting got a little excited when Brush M7 799 approached from the south, but with there being no announcement I figured that it would run straight through; and it duly did so with 8350 1220 Kalutara South – Maradana. The signals then went black again but were turned back on 5-minutes later, which was our cue to head to the south end of the platform to battle our way into the 2^nd class coaches. M10A 942 arrived only about 15’ late with a very wedged 8085 0940 Matara – Colombo Fort. After fighting our way into one of the coaches, the one with the most white folk in it, I began asking around to see who was getting off at Colombo and managed to negotiate a couple of decent seats for us to clamber into when vacated; and it was nothing short of a scrum at Colombo Fort when almost every tourist vacated the coach, with most not even realising they were at Colombo Fort when the train came to a stand.

We were well in our seats before the chaos ensued and during it, I noticed M8 843 running through the station. A walk to the front of the train, once I could get off it, revealed M10A 942 disappearing off into the distance and the M8 just dropping down to work forward with 4085 1345 Colombo Fort – Vavuniya; which was nice. The journey north, thanks to us having seats, and seats on the non-sunny side more to the point, wasn’t too bad. We had everything we needed to keep us occupied during the journey, and a few snacks to tide us on as well. There were sellers up and down the train throughout the journey, selling anything from water/pop to fruit/snacks, so you wouldn’t starve if you had nothing with you. While the train emptied out the further north it got, it wasn’t empty at any point but eventually everyone had seats, in 2^nd class at least.

Despite departing Colombo Fort on time, that was the only time 4085 1345 Colombo Fort – Vavuniya was on time, and it gradually lost time the further north it got; with the kick in the balls coming the closer we got to Anuradhapura, where we were subjected to two separate 20-minute waits for things coming south. The latter of which was an M5 DMU, which I thought had all been scrapped. We passed a selection of stuff on the way, including W3 715 with 1024 0530 Nanuoya – Colombo Fort, M4 745 with 6012 0610 Batticaloa – Colombo Fort (on vac-braked stock), M4 753 with 5868 0730 Talaimannar Pier – Colombo Fort, M10 914 with 4078 0825 Kankesanthurai – Mount Lavinia & Brush M7 807 with 4865 1625 Maho Jn – Kurunegala “baby” train.

Arrival into Anuradhapura New Town was around the 2000 mark, over an hour late. There were quite a few tourists alighting there and the small waiting area outside the station was full of tuk-tuk’s; their owners waiting to pounce on unsuspecting tourists. We had an arranged pick-up though and our Hewage Resort branded tuk-tuk was easily recognisable as we strolled by the line-up; the hotel having sent us a picture of it before we’d arrived, so we knew what to look for. Randomly, as we headed up the station approach road, we passed all the other tourists making their own way on foot, with not one having used a tuk-tuk from the station.

It was only a short drive to the nearby Hewage Resort, booked on Booking.com, where we’d be staying for three nights. Out tuk-tuk driver was a member of the family that own the Hewage Resort, his English wasn’t that great, but we heard him practicing English during our stay, using tape recordings. His partner was waiting, at what can only be described as a homestay, to greet us in their reception room. We were shown immediately to our ground-floor room, which was pristine, with a decent bed, great air-con, a large spotless bathroom and when I asked for a mosquito plug, I was told we didn’t need one as there were no mosquitoes in the room. I was skeptical but we never had a mosquito in our room for the duration of our stay. Bottled water was available in 1L bottles from the reception area, whenever needed, and we were charged for it during check out, which saved a lot of messing about.

I didn’t hang around when we checked in and left my wife sorting her stuff out while I nipped back to Anuradhapura New Town station, hoping I’d not missed 4003 1555 Colombo Fort – Vavuniya Intercity. The tuk-tuks waiting at the station were a giveaway that it hadn’t gone, and I didn’t have to wait long for M2 569 to turn up, almost an hour late. I only did it the short distance to Anuradhapura, then got a tuk-tuk straight back to the Hewage Resort.

Having asked the staff where the best places to eat were, the recommended an Indian restaurant called Mango Mango, which was a 3km tuk-tuk ride away from the Hewage. It cost us RS300 to get there in a tuk-tuk and RS250 to get back; and I had to direct the driver on the way back as he’d never heard of our hotel. Mango Mango was quite busy when we arrived and we ended up sat at the end of a long rectangular table, already occupied by some locals. It wasn’t an issue though. We’d read that the food was good, and the portions were sizable; and everything we’d read about the place was confirmed when our own food was put on the table. Service was quick, the food fresh and hot and other than the receptionist short-changing me by RS200, which I think was a genuine mistake, our visit was well worth it. Most locals visit in their own vehicles and there’s a car park attendant outside, who uses his large torch to flag down passing tuk-tuks to take tourists back to their hotels.

As our primary objective in Anuradhapura was to have a day looking around the ancient ruins, which we’d not done a great job of 9-years previous, I asked the hotel if they could arrange us a tuk-tuk to take us around the ruins only, not all the tourist traps and Dagobas which we’d done last time, and they were more than happy to arrange it for us. She reckoned we’d pay about RS2000 for the trip but would confirm once shed sorted it the following day, while we were out and about.

Gen for Friday 15^th February 2019
949 8725 0735 Maradana – Ratmalana, 8330 0840 Ratmalana – Maradana
748 8727 0732 Maradana – Panadura, 8339 0915 Panadura – Maradana
750 8729 0757 Maradana – Panadura, 8336 0935 Panadura – Maradana
744 8732 0812 Maradana – Mount Lavinia, 8346 0915 Mount Lavinia – Maradana
944 8040 0810 Maradana – Matara
767 8342 0700 Aluthgama – Maradana
755 8086 1030 Colombo Fort – Matara
799 8350 1220 Kalutara South – Maradana
942 8085 0940 Matara – Colombo Fort
843 4085 1345 Colombo Fort – Vavuniya
715 1024 0530 Nanuoya – Colombo Fort
745 6012 0610 Batticaloa – Colombo Fort
753 5868 0730 Talaimannar Pier – Colombo Fort
914 4078 0825 Kankesanthurai – Mount Lavinia
807 4865 1625 Maho Jn – Kurunegala
569 4003 1555 Colombo Fort – Vavuniya

Moves for Friday 15^th February 2019

Photos for Friday 15^th February 2019

Saturday 16^th February 2019 (Anuradhapura to Kankesanthurai and back then overnight to Talaimannar Pier and back!)

We had a nice lay-in and didn’t need to be up for breakfast until 9 o’clock, which was served upstairs in a nice little secluded area; seemingly outside where the family lived in the building. We didn’t get a choice and were initially presented with a plate of fresh fruit before being served a cracking banana fritter type dish, which was more like a chapati with banana & honey folder between it. Whatever it was, it was bloody lovely, and we didn’t refuse the extra one that followed! Tea and water washed everything down and we had plenty of time to get to the station for our train north to Kankesanthurai.

When the guy in the station building at Anuradhapura New Town saw tourists walking towards the station, he popped his head out of a window to ask if he could help. The French couple ahead of us were looking to book tickets for a couple of days’ time, which could only be done at Anuradhapura main station, he told them. He then told us that tickets for 4077 0550 Mount Lavinia – Kankesanthurai didn’t go on sale until 1030 as he never knew how late the train was going to be, which intimates that it’s always late, of course! The booked departure time for 4077 is 1034 from Anuradhapura New Town.

During our wait, thankfully in the shade, we watched a family of mongooses ferreting around the tracks and surrounding undergrowth for food. One of which managed to be quite enterprising and left me a bit puzzled when it returned with a fish in its mouth; until I noticed that the building opposite the station was a fish distribution warehouse. They weren’t the only things looking for a meal and a large “bald” eagle type swooped down close by and took its spoils back into a nearby tree before ripping it to bits and eating it.

When local sellers started turning up and getting all their fruits, nuts and whatever else they were going to sell, ready on the platform we assumed they had some inside info and had been alerted by their friends of an approaching train. Sure enough one did arrive shortly afterwards but it wasn’t the one we were waiting for and when M4 745 arrived with 5868 0730 Talaimannar Pier – Colombo Fort, the card game that the waiting tuk-tuk drivers were having in the waiting area behind us was soon abandoned. With 745 turning up first we feared that we’d be in for a lengthy wait, while it headed south to cross our 4077 0550 Mount Lavinia – Kankesanthurai; but it was only 20 minutes before M10 914 was dropping into the station and the tuk-tuk drivers were telling tourists through the coach windows that they’d arrived into Anuradhapura.

There was room in 2^nd class, and we got ourselves a decent couple of seats for the 5-hour, 210km journey north to Kankesanthurai. We only got 26km into the journey before being held at Medawachchiya Junction to await M10A 940 arriving with 4078 0825 Kankesanthurai – Mount Lavinia, which was smack on time. Meanwhile 4077 was 1h55m late departing Medawachchiya Junction, and with only a 2h40m turnaround at Kankesanthurai it seemed that my assumed lunch break was out of the window before we’d gone anywhere. At least the train wasn’t wedged, and we had space to spread out into, and were able to pick the side that wasn’t in the sunshine to sit on. Once north of Vavuniya there was a marked change in the track quality, for obvious reasons. IRCON have done a really good job of relaying the Northern Line after the war had finished. The journey was smooth along the continuous welded rail, unlike the roller-coaster ride in the rest of Sri Lanka on jointed track with virtually no ballast foundation.

Once at Jaffna, all the tourists on the train got off, except for a couple of French tourists that got on at the same time as us and did it through to Kankesanthurai as well. Most of the tourists had been on board before we joined the train in Anuradhapura, so had done the train from Colombo to Jaffna; a whopping 9h30m journey, including the 90 minutes of time added on! The run forward from Jaffna was an all stations affair and very start-stop, but the driver wasn’t hanging around, or giving the M10 a rest either. We rolled into Kankesanthurai station at 1659, 1h39m late; leaving us just 1h01m to sort ourselves out before having to head back to whence we’d came from.

M10 915 was sat in the adjacent platform when we arrived, with the 15-coach vac-braked set that would form 4090 1800 Kankesanthurai – Colombo Fort. There were three sleeperettes right behind the loco, followed by a mail coach, then the 2^nd class coaches, with the 3^rd class coaches towards the rear of the train. 914 was immediately run-round and then shut down in readiness to work 4078 0825 Kankesanthurai – Mount Lavinia the following morning and 915 was already running at the head of its train. After getting the obligatory photos we bought 2^nd class tickets back to Anuradhapura and then went in search of something to eat.

To say there is nothing on offer, either food or water wise, in the vicinity of Kankesanthurai station is an understatement. Luckily, right opposite Kankesanthurai station is the Thalsevana Holiday Resort. Which, had we been anything like on time, would have been a great place to have a nice meal before heading back. But as it turned out we ended up with 45 minutes to get something to eat and drink. Thankfully the French fries and spring rolls we ordered were cooked quickly and boxed up for us to take back to the train with us. Luckily there were cold drinks and bottled water in the fridges and a couple of Elephant Ginger Beers went down nicely while we waited; and we made sure we had enough water for the return journey before paying and heading back to the station.

We had the pick of the seats from Kankesanthurai and it wasn’t until Vavuniya that we had to economize on space to let others sit down. From Anuradhapura it was standing room only, even in 2^nd class. About 15 minutes into the journey I noticed something unusual towards the middle of the train, as I looked down the aisles; it was only a buffet bar, serving hot & cold drinks snacks and various Sri Lankan niceties! So, we wouldn’t have starved after all.

At Jaffna we sat waiting time, during which the mail coach was opened up and a load went in to be sorted during the journey south. We departed there about 5’ late waiting for the nice shiny new S13 DMU to arrive from the south with 4017 1150 Colombo Fort – Kankesanthurai and that was us heading south. It was a lot nicer run south, mostly because the temperature wasn’t offensive, and the train wasn’t rammed either. We weren’t that late back into Anuradhapura New Town either, where there weren’t any tuk-tuks waiting at all, so we ambled back to the hotel via the deserted streets; where I stocked up on snacks and took only a bottle of water back out with me on my nighttime bash to Talaimannar Pier, leaving my wife to get some sleep at the hotel.

This was one of those needs must moves, and no matter how you do the Talaimannar Pier move, you have 4 hours there, minimum. There just wasn’t enough time in our trip to allow me to do it without either dissing the sightseeing, or doing it this way; so, this way it was! There were a couple of people waiting when I got back to the station, and I didn’t have to wait long after buying my ticket for MLW MX620 M4 753 to come bowling into the station with 5067 1915 Colombo Fort – Talaimannar Pier and that was me for the night. I even managed to get a bit of kip on the way to Talaimannar but was glad I’d deeted up before leaving the hotel. The M4 was in fine voice as well.

Gen for Saturday 16^th February 2019
745 5868 0730 Talaimannar Pier – Colombo Fort
914 4077 0550 Mount Lavinia – Kankesanthurai
940 4078 0825 Kankesanthurai – Mount Lavinia
915 4090 1800 Kankesanthurai – Colombo Fort
945 4085 1345 Colombo Fort – Vavuniya
786 4003 1555 Colombo Fort – Vavuniya
753 5067 1915 Colombo Fort – Talaimannar Pier

Moves for Saturday 16^th February 2019

Photos for Saturday 16^th February 2019

It wasn’t a prompt arrival into Talaimannar Pier, but it did mean I would have to fester for 3h55m in the dead of night. I was prepared for the fact there’d be nothing to do at Talaimannar Pier but there really was, nothing! 753 disappeared off with the stock back to Talaimannar, which I was aware would happen thanks to recent postings, so I went to have a look at the old pier for a bit. The “Warning Pier in a dilapidated condition, entry prohibited” sign was enough to keep me off the old wooden structure during daylight, let alone during the dead of night. It was quite surreal sitting at the base of the lighthouse eating nutrigrain bars while waiting for the stock to return from Talaimannar; but it passed the time.

The stock for 5868 0730 Talaimannar Pier – Colombo Fort was in the station in good time and I was able to buy a ticket and get on well before departure, which did allow me to catch up on a bit of sleep before departure. I didn’t really sleep at all after departure and spent most of the time with my head out of the window listening to the growl of the M4 as it got to grips with its train. The run from Medawachchiya Junction to Anuradhapura was very good and I’d missed a good old thrash with the M4’s. It was a shame that the majority of the trip had to centre around track that involved the M10’s and I might not get much chance in the future to have a blast on the M4s if the M11s shoved them onto the back-burner.

Back at Anuradhapura I was straight to the hotel and breakfast was all but waiting on the table! Unfortunately, it wasn’t banana pancakes again, it was rice-noodle cakes and curry. Not everyone’s cup of tea as a breakfast choice but it wasn’t offensive; it was very filling though! It wasn’t long after breakfast that our ride for the morning turned up and that was most of the day taken care of when we rolled out of the driveway in our hired tuk-tuk.

I’d asked on arrival at the hotel if they’d be able to sort us out a tuk-tuk to take us around Anuradhapura’s ruins, and sort one they had. The agreed cost for the morning was RS2500 but our driver didn’t speak much English at all. Which was initially an issue, as he ended up taking us straight to the first stop on the “usual” tourist trail that involved endless visits to stupas. We’d done that on our previous visit and only wanted to visit the ruins on this occasion, something that was kindly explained to our driver by another tuk-tuk driver after he spotted us trying to explain what we wanted to do. From that point on the morning went exactly as we’d hoped it would, we saw nothing but ruins and generally had them all to ourselves while the hoards crammed themselves into the busy stupas and temples. It’s a shame that most tours miss out the most fascinating part of Anuradhapura, the ruins, and drag people around to stupa after stupa, by the end of which you couldn’t care less if you never see another stupa again! That was how we felt after our trip in 2009 and we had a very limited time to see hardly any of the ancient ruins as a result of the failing light and having to be out of the area. Having paid the hefty fee to allow entry to the ancient areas, which is compulsory, by the time we were heading back towards our hotel we had a nice relaxing morning, my camera had been on power wind mode and we were very pleased with the outcome of the day. Our driver had been excellent in the end, and very patient with me while I was out of sight exploring the deserted ruins, and he deserved the tip I gave him.

While on a jaunt to the local supermarket, which just happened to be at the end of the lane that leads to Anuradhapura Town station, I couldn’t resist a quick out and back to Thambuttegama when M10 914 arrived with 4078 0825 Kankesanthurai – Mount Lavinia. M4 provided the short-lived entertainment on the way back with 745 5452 0850 Colombo Fort – Talaimannar Pier, and before I knew it, I was back at the hotel with cold refreshments, only an hour after leaving!

Pizza Hut, around the corner from the hotel, provided a light snack of an afternoon, before we headed to Mango Mango again, for a second good meal. It wasn’t as busy as it had been two nights previous but by the time we left there wasn’t much room left for newcomers to sit.

As we had an early start the following morning, we were all packed ready for the off and the hotel owner offered to take us to Anuradhapura station the following morning; so we didn’t have to be concerned about finding someone to take us at stupid o’clock in the morning.

Gen for Sunday 17^th February 2019
753 5868 0730 Talaimannar Pier – Colombo Fort
914 4078 0825 Kankesanthurai – Mount Lavinia
745 5452 0850 Colombo Fort – Talaimannar Pier

Moves for Sunday 17^th February 2019

Photos for Sunday 17^th February 2019 – Anuradhapura Ruins #1

Photos for Sunday 17^th February 2019 – Anuradhapura Ruins #2

Photos for Sunday 17^th February 2019 – Anuradhapura Ruins #3

Monday 18^th February 2019 (Anuradhapura to Trincomalee via Maho Jn)

There was no time wasted when the alarm went off at 0530 and we were outside ready for the agreed 0600 rendezvous with the hotel owner and his tuk-tuk. When he dropped us at Anuradhapura station, he refused to take any money off us and wished us well before heading off back to whence he’d came from.

While the ticket window for the sale of AC tickets was doing a roaring trade, the 3^rd class ticket window didn’t open until 20 minutes after we arrived; so, we stood like lemons waiting until someone manned the required window. Only with tickets purchased we could gain access to the platforms and when we did found MLW MX620 M4 749 sat waiting to head south with a short freight and a Hunslet shunter shunting some tank wagons over the back of the station.

Unexpectedly, M6 786 turned up with 4004 0545 Vavuniya – Colombo Fort Intercity, and not the usual M2. The little M6 was given a bit of a punishing towards Maho though and it was a fast run. Upon arrival there I got a photo of 786 departing, with semaphores dominating the shot, before buying our onward tickets to Galoya Jn in 2^nd class. I’d been looking forward to the run down the Batticaloa line with an M4, that was right up until M6 790 appeared off the Colombo line with 6011 0605 Colombo Fort – Batticaloa! Definitely not what I was expecting to see come around the corner on what was a solid M4 turn. However, it didn’t quite make it all the way around the corner and came to a stand near the signalbox. When people started to clamber off the train outside the station and walk down the tracks towards the platforms, we knew something wasn’t right. Our eager stares towards the train prompted a couple of the passing locals to tell us there were problems with the locomotive.

As more people began to detrain from 6011 where it stood outside the station, I began to wonder what the outcome of the situation would be; especially after a couple of staff went wondering down to the loco and stood looking at it with the loco crew. After wandering down the track to get a couple of photos myself, I stood on the platform and figured that M4 749 couldn’t be that far away from Maho if it had set off from Anuradhapura shortly after we’d left on 4004. Surely that would be the nearest, and most sensible engine to use in this situation? Further to that, 4077 Mount Lavinia – Kankesanthurai was due at Maho shortly so the main line would need clearing for that to get in. The answer to the predicament had been staring at us from a distance the whole while and as the controller in me figured that using the Hunslet shunt loco stabled not 100m from the stricken M6, did wisps of smoke appear from it’s exhaust!

As little Hunslet shunter Y678 dropped down towards the train, I left my bags on the platform and sauntered down to board the train, which was soon being dragged into the platform; and no sooner had it arrived did M4 749 pull up alongside with the freight we’d seen it with at Anuradhapura earlier. Rather efficiently, the Hunslet shunter dragged the failed M6 off the train and M4 749 was detached from its freight and dropped onto the opposite end of 6011’s stock for the run forward to Batticaloa. M10 915 arrived shortly afterwards with 4077 0550 Mount Lavinia – Kankesanthurai and during all the kerfuffle I was able to get plenty of refreshments from the station buffet. A pleasant journey followed towards Galoya Jn, albeit a late one, and the driver definitely wasn’t sparing the horses as he tried to recover time along the way. Something that seemed fruitless when we were shunted back out of Moragollagama station and into the loop, alongside M8 848 that was stabled with a ballast train. When M2 592 came in with the opposing working of 6012 0610 Batticaloa – Colombo Fort the alarm bells started ringing; especially as every time we’d seen 6011/6012 the previous week it had been a solid M4.

There were two surprises when 6011 arrived into Galoya Jn, the first being that 7490 1200 Galoya Jn – Trincomalee was still waiting in the platform for connecting passengers off 6011. The second being that M8 847 was the traction and not the expected M2; which was a massive bonus. Having hastily bought two tickets to Trincomalee, once I could get someone in the office to pay attention to the fact that we needed tickets before the train departed, we boarded the relatively empty front coach for the journey to Trincomalee and rather than getting off to do the booked M8 turn back to Galoya and end up in Trincomalee a few hours later, we flagged M8 842 when we crossed it on 7887 1120 Trincomalee – Galoya Jn; and headed straight into Trincomalee. The fact that 7490 was Alco vice the usual GM was a blessing in disguise and allowed us an early bath at Trincomalee, which meant we had enough time to have a look at the sights in the afternoon as well.

On arrival into Trincomalee we made a bee line for one of the few waiting tuk-tuk’s and agreed a RS300 fare to our hotel, the Trinco Lagoon; which was only a couple of kilometers from the station and took about 5 minutes in the tuk-tuk. The front desk staff were expecting us, and it seemed that we were the only people staying in the hotel. Our room was clean, the AC worked very well and WiFi was available. The staff at the front desk were helpful and sorted us a tuk-tuk out to take us to Fort Frederick, which only cost RS150! While our driver was willing to take us all the way to the Koneswaram Kovil (Hindu Temple), we opted to walk. Something we should have considered really, as its uphill all the way from the fort entrance to the temple and we were dripping with sweat by the time we’d amble through the surrounding military base. Which randomly has wild spotted deer roaming around it freely. We passed plenty of people walking back down the hill and by the time we got to the temple there were hoards all around, enjoying their afternoon jaunt. There were plenty of places along the way to buy refreshments from, which were needed. Due to the sheer amount of people at the temple though, and the fact we had to take our shoes off outside the site, I had a quick walk around the outside while Danielle had a rest outside, near the mass footwear storage area. That was enough walking for us in the afternoon heat and a waiting tuk-tuk was commandeered to get us back to our nice cool airconditioned room.

As the opportunity arose I had a walk to Trincomalee station of an evening and had a brainwave on my way there, which I’d have been better having before I’d done the 2.5km walk; and I ended up getting a tuk-tuk to take me to China Bay station, which is at the opposite side of Trincomalee Harbour to the city. The 9km journey only took 15 minutes and I was soon standing on the platform waiting for DLW built M8 842 to arrive with 7491 1530 Galoya Jn – Trincomalee, and it did so a little later than expected. On arrival back into Trincomalee I spotted the freight that we’d seen M8 848 on earlier in the day and sure enough as 842 shunted its stock away, I found 848 lurking on shed; and more importantly, it was running. Which changed the game plan for the evening.

After a quick tuk-tuk journey back to the hotel, via Pizza Hut for an appetizer, I was back at the station in time to view the southbound overnight, 7084 1900 Trincomalee – Colombo Fort; and sure enough, M8 848 was sat at the head of the lengthy train. A quick move out to China Bay had me returning to the hotel in a tuk-tuk I had to direct but I was back in time for tea. We’d asked the hotel staff earlier about food and they opened the restaurant at the time we agreed. Unfortunately, the hotel boy was left to do the cooking and nothing he rustled up was up to scratch. So, we picked at what he served and retired to our room, wishing we’d gone to Pizza Hut for a decent meal!

As our trip to Trincomalee was nothing more than a box ticking exercise, our time there was short lived and limited to just the one afternoon. We were packed and ready for the early departure the following morning, having already pre-arranged for a tuk-tuk to take us to the station just after 6am.

Gen for Monday 18^th February 2019
749 at Anuradhapura at 0630 with southbound freight
786 4004 0545 Vavuniya – Colombo Fort
595 through Galgamuwa at 0730 with a northbound school special
790 6011 0605 Colombo Fort – Batticaloa (fail outside Maho Jn Y678 dragged into station)
749 (off a freight) 6011 0605 Colombo Fort – Batticaloa (fwd from Maho after 790 failed)
915 4077 0550 Mount Lavinia – Kankesanthurai
848 at Moragollagama with a ballast train
592 6012 0610 Batticaloa – Colombo Fort
847 7490 1200 Galoya Jn – Trincomalee
842 7887 1120 Trincomalee – Galoya Jn, 7491 1530 Galoya Jn – Trincomalee
848 7084 1900 Trincomalee – Colombo Fort

Moves for Monday 18^th February 2019

Photos for Monday 18^th February 2019 – Railway

Photos for Monday 18^th February 2019 – Trincomalee

Tuesday 19^th February 2019 (Trincomalee to Colombo)

The arranged tuk-tuk was prompt and had us at the station before both the stock for 7886 0650 Trincomalee – Galoya Jn had been shunted into the platform, or the booking office had been opened for the sale of tickets. DLW built M8A 877 was just shunting the stock out when we arrived, having worked in with 7083 2130 (P) Colombo Fort – Trincomalee. GM M2 593 shunted the stock in for 7886 0650 Trincomalee – Galoya Jn shortly afterwards, which included a 2^nd class coach; so 2^nd class tickets it was and we were able to buy a through ticket from Trincomalee to Colombo Fort, which saved buying another at Galoya Jn.

It was a harmless journey to Galoya and on arrival M2 593 shunted the stock ex 7886 0650 Trincomalee – Galoya Jn into the sidings. M2 569 was already in, having arrived with 6479 0600 Maho Jn – Batticaloa. It was removed from the train when the stock off 7886 was berthed and attached to the Trincomalee end in readiness to work 7490 1200 Galoya Jn – Trincomalee. M2 593 was then run-round through the station and after shunting a wagon out of the sidings it then worked 6479 0600 Maho Jn – Batticaloa forward from Galoya Jn as a mixed train.

As I thought might happen, M2 573 arrived into Galoya Jn with 6012 0610 Batticaloa – Colombo Fort, cementing the fact that 6011/6012 now seemed to be booked for M2/M6 instead of an M4. We had the gen on which end the 2^nd class was at and were among the first on the train, which wasn’t full. It was a pleasant journey to Maho Jn and along the way we passed M8 842 at Moragollagama with a ballast train, which looked identical to the ballast M8 848 had been sat with the previous day and in exactly the same place. So, 848 had come off the ballast and done 7084 1900 Trincomalee – Colombo Fort the previous night, while I assumed 842 had arrived Trincomalee off 7083 2130 Colombo Fort – Trincomalee the previous morning, done 7887/7491 to Galoya Jn and return and then dropped onto the ballast turn.

All wasn’t lost with the fact 6012 was an M2 and after a brief interlude at Maho Jn, which allowed for snacks and refreshments at the station buffet, MLW MX620 M4 753 saved the day when it rolled in with 5868 0730 Talaimannar Pier – Colombo Fort. During our wait at Maho Jn I heard a discussion between a French couple and some locals, where a large map was being studied. When I asked where they were going, I was shocked to hear Trincomalee as the answer, as the next train was later in the evening now. It turned out they’d arrived Maho off the same train as us, having been on it from Batticaloa. They’d not been aware that they needed to change trains at Galoya Jn to get to Trincomalee and were last seen heading out of the station to find themselves a bus to Trincomalee instead!

The M4 gave a spirited run to Colombo and we made Brush built GM M7 806 with 8053 1350 Galle – Maradana, which put us into an S12 DMU straight back from Maradana to Fort and allowed me a brief interlude to buy tickets to Katunayake South. When I spied Ruston M9 867 waiting to go with 1035 1635 Colombo Fort – Kandy that was another quick trip to Maradana with GM M6 785 doing the honours on the return with 1010 1500 Kandy – Colombo Fort. As it was a holiday day in Sri Lanka I’d been a little skeptical as to whether the evening commuters would be hauled on the Puttalam line but when MLW MX620 M4 744 arrived with 3427 1805 Colombo Fort – Chilaw we found a bay in the front coach and I reveled in the 12 cylinder MLW thrash to Katunayake South. It was literally non-stop thrash excitement between stations, with the driver not sparing the loco at all and I got off wishing I’d been going all the way to Chilaw with it! As it hammered away into the distance, I listened to it as though it was the last time I’d ever hear an M4; which didn’t seem implausible with the M11’s infiltrating and more DMU’s being built.

That was the last train of the trip and we were flying home the following morning. We didn’t realise it until we got to our hotel but staying in Negombo would have been a lot better choice than staying at one of the handy airport hotels. The Ronaka Airport Hotel had mixed reviews online and when we got to it, we realised why it had bad ones. It only took us 10 minutes to get to the hotel, but it then took longer to check in thanks to the hotel’s card machine playing up. They were more concerned about taking the payment than getting us to our room; and were told so. Eventually, we got there and were at least given a room away from the main road. It was nothing special and a little tatty around the edges. It wasn’t anything I’d not stayed in before but to Danielle it was among the worst she’d ever stayed at.

Despite the not so great room and the crap check-in, the staff at least sorted us a tuk-tuk to take us to the Sasha Restaurant. They’d recommended it and it was a straight 2km down the main road. It is a hotel with an attached restaurant that offers a multicuisine menu and the place was full of locals, which is always a good sign. The food served was good quality and having paid the bill we left, wishing we’d picked the Sasha as our base for the night as well; it looked decent from the exterior.

Back at the Ronaka Hotel, our whirlwind tour of Sri Lanka was all but over and in the short time we’d been in the country we’d travelled to the furthest south and furthest north points by rail, as well as the east coast. Unfortunately, it was time for home though and after arranging for an early tuk-tuk to the airport, we hit the sack.

Gen for Tuesday 19^th February 2019
877 7083 2130 (P) Colombo Fort – Trincomalee
593 7886 0650 Trincomalee – Galoya Jn, 6479 0600 Maho Jn – Batticaloa (from Galoya Jn – mixed)
569 6479 0600 Maho Jn – Batticaloa (to Galoya Jn – mixed), 7490 1200 Galoya Jn – Trincomalee
573 6012 0610 Batticaloa – Colombo Fort
595 6011 0605 Colombo Fort – Batticaloa
842 at Moragollagama with a ballast train
753 5868 0730 Talaimannar Pier – Colombo Fort
807 4853 1050 Maho Jn – Kurunegala
945 4085 1345 Colombo Fort – Vavuniya
789 1029 1535 Colombo Fort – Kandy
786 4003 1555 Colombo Fort – Vavuniya
806 8053 1350 Galle – Maradana
867 1035 1635 Colombo Fort – Kandy
743 3425 1718 Colombo Fort – Puttalam
748 8766 1750 Colombo Maradana – Matara
785 1010 1500 Kandy – Colombo Fort
864 1039 1745 Colombo Fort – Kandy
744 3427 1805 Colombo Fort – Chilaw

Moves for Tuesday 19^th February 2019

Photos for Tuesday 19^th February 2019 – Railway

Wednesday 20^th February 2019 (The journey home from Colombo to Doncaster)

Our tuk-tuk was already waiting to take us to the airport at 6am but as they’re not allowed right up to the front of the airport, we had to walk the last few hundred meters, before going through airport security. Colombo airport was a little chaotic but also harmless chaos at the same time, and we were airside quicker than I thought we would be. Our Oman Air flight to Muscat departed at 0910 and was a pleasant flight. After the mad rush to go through security at Muscat, where everything seems to arrive at once, we decided to buy some refreshments, along with a load of other people. What nobody knew, and its not made clear anywhere at all, was that there are further security checks at the gate for our connecting plane back to London, which weren’t in place on the way out to Colombo. As a result, everyone that had bought drinks for the flight had to either drink them before going through or put them in the bin before being allowed through. My complaint to the staff checking boarding cards at the top of the stairs just brought about shrugs of the shoulders, which is a sure-fire way of getting someone’s back up!

I’d like to say the problems ended there but once we’d taken off it came to light that the lip-sync on our entertainment screens was way out and even after a few resets of the system the staff couldn’t rectify it and we ended up with no entertainment system for the whole of our journey. The on-board customer manager did offer to move us but as it was only to other seats in the same cabin, which would have screwed us when we needed to get off with our bags being rows behind us, we stayed put; and lumped it! Which was a shame as I was looking forward to watching what I had on the screen, it was just infuriating watching it out of sync.

We couldn’t complain though as we were early arriving back into Heathrow and had a head start towards London on the underground, after breezing through passport control. Making 91104 on the 2003 Kings Cross – Leeds was a bonus and the fact the 1^st class was empty was a big bonus. It was good to get home though and thankfully our taxi was waiting for us at Doncaster. It had been a long day and it was almost 4am to our body clocks when we walked in.

Moves for Wednesday 20^th February 2019